Lately, you may have noticed many pouring videos and finishes covered in oil all over social media. Ah! Don’t worry. We are here to help you with the true solution.
Resin is a strong, glass-like coating that can be used as a pinnacle coat, artwork medium, an accessory on your artwork, and more. The crystal-clear end is self-leveling, dries smooth, and makes colorings seem vibrant.
Assume you are already a pro or can’t get the look you want. Then, scroll down to the bottom for some helpful pro tips. This is a step-by-step guide for casting and encasing objects with Deep Pour Epoxy Resin.
After reading, you can create custom pieces with wood, molds, and more! So, it’s time to pack your bag with the best resin for thick pour, and let’s go.
Table of Contents
Why is Epoxy Best for Thick Casts?
Epoxy is supreme for high viscosity castings for the following reasons:
1. The volume ratio is 1: 1, and it can be easily mixed, so anyone can easily mix and use it.
2. Self-leveling. Therefore, you don’t have to buy expensive rollers or brushes.
3. It is easy to wash with water and is UV resistant due to its strong UV suppressant. This way, your project will not wither.
4. Resins for viscous casting comply with FDA regulations mandated to assure safety.
5. Thick molded resin is well suited with concentrated liquid pigments, resin-based colorants, mica pigments, and acrylic paints.
6. It has a great working time of 45 -50 minutes, so you have time to flex your creative muscles.
7. It also has a rich processing time of 2 to 3 days, so you don’t have to wait so long to finish your project.
How to pour thick epoxy resin –
We will go through the process step by step and share some tips and tricks to make it unchallenging and the results look professional.
If you are already an expert or can’t wholly get the look you’re trying for. Then, scroll to the end to see some obliging Pro Tips.
1. Epoxy limits
Epoxy sticks to almost anything, so it has some limitations. However, most problems arise when the surface is not properly prepared or when the curing temperature is out of specification.
If you plan to pour on timber or wood, plain it before pouring, cut, lightly sand, and clean all parts.
After all, if the work surface is free of dust, the room temperature is within the manufacturer’s specifications, and the epoxy is thoroughly mixed, the job is done.
2. Better safe than sorry: Safety first –
Be safe while working with resins, always wear a gas mask, or stay in a well-ventilated area. Epoxy messes things up, so always wear gloves and tape the sides and floors of empty spaces or the sides and floors of areas you want to keep the epoxy.
Epoxy is required for large holes or runoff. Assemble a box that matches the product you want to pour into. Seal the joints of the bottom and side seams to prevent leakage.
When the sealant dries, seal the sides and bottom of the box with tape to prevent the epoxy from sticking. Finally, ensure the mold is flat in every way to ensure the epoxy remains leveled and even.
3. Mix –
Shuffle time! The resin is usually in two bottles. One is resin, and the other is the hardener. Mix them in a measuring cup and stir for the specified time. Stirring is not easy.
To mix the epoxy properly, you need to stir the epoxy until your arm is about to fall. Epoxy can even get hot. Then add pigment powder or dye (acrylic paint) and stir one more time.
Make sure the project is perfectly horizontal so that the epoxy is flat and leveled. Pour it, filling the cavity evenly in 1/5 inch increments until the cavity is moderately overfilled.
With Deep Pore Epoxy, a single pore can be deeper than 1/5 inch. For standard epoxies, make a 1/4-inch layer until filled up.
4. Heat it up –
After pouring, the epoxy will most likely foam from agitation. These annoying bubbles are not very pleasing to look at and can drift to the top and leave a crater with a nice glass surface. Don’t worry.
This is where the propane torch magic begins! The torch quickly removes bubbles, making large fills look like glass. Turn the torch over the epoxy when the flame is about 2 to 3 inches from the epoxy surface.
Check all corners. This will cause the bubbles to burst, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the epoxy. Repeat this every minute until all air bubbles are gone, or the epoxy starts to gel.
5. Cure the Epoxy!
Let the epoxy cure. Most epoxy resins cure overnight, but some deeper pours can take many days.
You want to extend the cure time to achieve the plain sailing smoothest finish. Keep epoxy in a cool (not cold) place free of dust while curing.
6. Epoxy Finish –
Epoxy finish requires the removal of excess from its surface. To do this, polish the epoxy with sandpaper/sponge.
For some pours with a lot of overburden, run the epoxy through a shaper before sanding to remove the overburden quickly.
Once the Planning/sanding is complete, paint the epoxy how you want it. Using plain mineral oil for chopping boards is recommended. Use polyurethane gel or hard wax oil for everything non-food-related.
Pro tips that you should keep in mind while pouring thick epoxy resin –
Use a heat gun to heat the bottled epoxy before mixing it up. This not only facilitates bottling but also ensures the correct mixing temperature. Always use the same container for mixing.
The proportions of the mixture change when weighing in different containers or pouring into separate containers. Heat the foam out of the blending cup before pouring it.
The fewer bubbles you start with, the fewer bubbles you need to remove. Pour slowly. Your video may look great when poured for a long time, but you add air to the epoxy, forcing you to remove more bubbles later.
If you have a deep knot or gap that needs filling, you can fill it up with glue or filler and pour epoxy on top to save on epoxy coating costs.
The only way to achieve a crystalline finish is to apply a top coat (pour a final coat of epoxy onto the finished product).
Will the epoxy resin break during the pouring process?
It is all contingent on the strength of the epoxy, the stressed area, and the amount of stress. The ones you buy at home improvement stores aren’t mighty, but those used to make graphite composites are incredible.
Why is epoxy resin not hard at the top but hard underneath?
Mix it well in one container, then remix it in another. Do not scrape the edges when emptying the second mixing bucket.
Please clean up the initial project and roughen it up with 150-grit sandpaper. Then, clean it up, prepare to refill as you clean the surface, and sand it to get adhesion between layers.
Please mix well; otherwise, you’ll get those adhesive spots always you try.
Will the uncured resin cure if you purposely pour new resin onto the uncured resin?
Due to insufficient addition of a curing agent, Uncured resin will not cure properly over time (or pour the material over it) in such cases.
Furthermore, if it hasn’t hardened yet, it will harden even if you mix it properly, despite pouring more. In the first case, you should remove the uncured or discarded material and start over.
Closing thought –
In conclusion, epoxies are helpful for thick pouring and manufacturing as they are used to create various products. Also, they are less expensive and simpler to use. Have you ever poured thick resin? Comment below to let us know.